COMMENT: Lord of the trains

These days we don’t have a Minster for Aviation, just Lord Adonis, Baron Adonis of Camden Town, of clearly high intellect but little knowledge of the airline industry and what it means to Britain.

In a previous life Andrew Adonis was an Oxford Don and sometime journalist with both the Financial Times and The Observer.  Adonis served time in Tony Blair’s Policy Unit and is known to be a bit of a railway buff.  He has been described as a mini Mandelson, all charm but yet haughty.  And just like Mandelson he sits in the protected world of the House of Lords.

Since his appointment Adonis has been very visible, clearly having leant the value of being seen around during his stint in Downing Street. 

The airline industry has very quickly forgotten about his predecessor Geoff Hoon. 

It is amazing to think that since Alistair Darling’s long tenure (May 2002 – May 2006) there have been no less than four holders of the position, Douglas Alexander, Ruth Kelly, Hoon and now Adonis.  In fact since this government came to power 12 Ministers have stumbled along yet we have had only two Chancellors (or two Prime Minsters if you like) which says a lot for the whole attitude of the administration towards aviation. 

With the House of Commons away on their extended summer holiday Andrew Adonis has chosen The Guardian to expound on his policies towards the railways, and by innuendo aviation.  Trains are the way ahead with (subsidised) high speed lines spreading their tentacles all around the country according to the Peer.  Compare what is being done in France and Spain he says quietly forgetting that we live in a compact island with enormous planning restrictions and a lack of money.  No debate from Lord Adonis, he just pontificates.  

Flying Matters, the pro-aviation lobby group, summed up the airline industry’s feelings which have also been articulated by others.  "The idea that you could get rid of all domestic plane travel and use high speed rail is pie in the sky," a spokesman said.    The distinguished Adam Smith Institute calls it a terrible idea.

The problem for Lord Adonis is not just the trains.  Aviation is being attacked with regard to APD (Air Passenger Duty) set to double over the next 16 months.  He will say it is nothing to do with him but the Treasury.  But is he representing at Cabinet level all who need air travel or looking after the railway lobby?  An even more vital question is why aviation is not represented by a dedicated Minister?  “No taxation without representation” – that was the call of the 13 British Colonies in 1776.  They chucked the government out.  Adonis might be in for a short tenure.

Next month his Lordship will speak to the Aviation Club at the Institute of Directors.  Assuming he is still around (the last guest of the club was fired while he was actually addressing the members), he is likely to be coldly received.  And unlike a previous Minister he cannot duck out of the appointment claiming the Division Bells are ringing.

Malcolm Ginsberg

Editor in Chief

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American Airlines increases luggage charges

AMERICAN AIRLINES is increasing its charges for checking a first or second bag.  The increases apply to domestic travel tickets purchased on or after 14 August, for travel within the United States and US Territories such as Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands.  The changes also apply to travellers on American’s regional affiliate, American Eagle, as well as AmericanConnection flights.  For tickets purchased on or after the effective date, the charge for the first checked bag is $20 and the charge for a second checked bag is $30, up from $15 and $25 respectively.  American’s checked bag charges to and from Canada are not changing as yet.  The baggage fees are not applied to international services nor members of various executive card schemes. www.aa.com

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Barclaycard Commercial business travel survey

BARCLAYCARD COMMERCIAL has published another of its business travel surveys, the results of which show that greater focus on managing environmental impacts in an effort to drive down business travel costs does not appear to be working.  People are more concerned with their business situation than the environment.  Of the 15% of business travellers who anticipated travelling less this year, three out of five respondents (57%) will be doing this in response to declining business or cost issues and only 1% as a result of a company environmental policy.  An overwhelming 64% of business travellers do not think air travel should be restricted to help protect the environment. www.barclaycardbusiness.co.uk

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First Holiday Inn to open in the Maldives

MALÉ, the tiny, literally sea level capital of the Maldives, will see the opening of its first international-class hotel on 1 September.  The 117-room Holiday Inn, at 15 storeys towers over the city and offers an unrivalled view of the harbour and beyond.  It is just a five-minute speedboat ride from the international airport.  Full conference facilities are provided rooms and Grand Ballroom has space for 180 banquet style or 240 for a reception.  The hotel has a rooftop swimming pool. There are two restaurants. www.holidayinn.com

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Kingfisher to Bangkok

KINGFISHER AIRLINES is to launch a daily service between Calcutta and Bangkok using a 174-seat single class Airbus A320.  Flight time will be around 2hr 45min.  The brewery-backed carrier faces competition on the route from the established Air India (two-class), Air India Express (one-class), Thai International (two-class), and Jet Airways (three-class).  The airline has ambitious plans for Bangkok and expects shortly to announce a similar Bangkok operation from Mumbai and Delhi. www.flykingfisher.com

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Oneworld moves at Heathrow

ONEWORLD has confirmed that its final Heathrow terminal switch will occur on 29 October with the start of the winter airline season.  On that day all Qantas services will move into T3 and also British Airways operations to Bangkok, Singapore and Sydney.  Finnair and Iberia moved into the terminal earlier this year, along with a number of British Airways' short haul routes.  Already based in Terminal 3 are oneworld shedule carriers – American Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Japan Airlines and Royal Jordanain.  Terminal 3 has been given a multi-million dollar up-grade to bring its customer facilities up to a similar standard to those offered at T5, including a new British Airways lounge facility, whose First suite will open when its Sydney flights move. www.oneworldalliance.com

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Summertime train story

VIRGIN TRAINS has combined with Statesman Rail to introduce “a summertime experience of the romance of the railways past and present”.  Passengers are able enjoy the contrasts of modern 125-mph tilting trains and vintage steam locomotives on the busy West Coast Main Line.  The steam-hauled train will travel from Lancaster and Preston to Appleby and Carlisle via the scenic Settle and Carlisle railway, operating every Wednesday until 9 September.  Due to demand an additional service on Wednesday 23 September has been added to the timetable.  The Pendolino used on the return journey are fully air-conditioned and have power points to enable passengers to charge electrical gadgets.  Most trains are Wi-Fi enabled and have enhanced mobile phone reception.  Alternatively, if you would prefer some restful time there is a quiet coach on all trains. www.golakes.co.uk

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ON TOUR: St Petersburg to Moscow on the inland waterways

St Petersburg to Moscow (and visa versa) on the inland waterways of Russia continues to be popular in spite of the difficulties placed in the way by the country’s bureaucracy.  It is a great holiday, an eye opener, and, up to a point, a very relaxing way of seeing literally the inside of Russia. 

Why the query about relaxing?  In order to get the most out of the trip one needs to be active and make the most of the stopovers along the 685-mile journey between the two great cities taking six nights.  The package includes three further nights at each end, adding to the community spirit of the whole trip and saving a great deal on hotel bills.

It is during the dark hours, and they are not that dark in the popular tourist season from May to September, that your ship cruises through 18 locks and the world’s largest fresh water lake.  The trip is tiring but most rewarding.  You don’t go direct.  Your ships diverts in Lake Onega to Kizha Island, famous for its wooden architecture and near Moscow to the ancient city of Yaroslavl on the Volga.

AERBT chose Viking River Cruises for the cruise, experts and very experienced with the problems of dealing with the Russians.  They even sort out the visas and using British Airways make your welcome to the city of Peter the Great very easy and relaxing.  At the other end there is not a rush to get off the ship (unlike deep sea cruising) and lunch is provided before departure if your flight is in the afternoon.  Likewise a morning arrival.

 The whole trip is a fully inclusive arrangement including most of the off ship tours, a visit to the ballet, and some enthralling musical entertainment.  Also part of the package are talks on the places visited, a Russian speaking course (not attempted) and a series of lectures on the Romanovs, communism and its fall, and the Russia of Gorbachev and Putin.  The aftermath of the fall of the Tsar is called the “Civil War” and WWII as “The Great Patriotic War”.

If you are used to big ship cruising Viking is in some ways a culture shock, but a pleasant one.  The ships used on this particular journey hold around 210 people and have about 106 crew.  The cabins are smaller than deep sea vessels, usually with showers, and just as well equipped.  Balconies would not fit in but large windows are provided.  The two spacious suites on board are worthy of any cruise liner and have jetted hot tubs. There is a doctor on board but no hairdressers or spa. 

Everyone dresses casual all the time and the busy schedule does not allow for wallowing under treatment.  There is a shop on board for essentials, a library, a small boutique and two lounges with a resident pianist, in this case a graduate from a conservatoire, very proficient in Tchaikovsky and jazz. 

Our ship was the Viking Kirov, one three ships used on the St Petersburg to Moscow programme and completely remodelled for the 2009 season.  Reputed to cost US$6m the work was handled by a Russian shipyard, unlike the previous year when sister ship Surkov was upgraded in Finland.  Essentially the 35-year old vessel, originally build in East Germany, was gutted.  Although looking somewhat severe externally once inside it is as modern as can be with full air conditioning, a comprehensive video and film presentation unit and very nicely presented bars and dining room.  All the cabins have internet facilities, flat screen TVs, fridge and safe. There is an elevator too.  English speaking Filipinos supply the resturant service which is on par with say Princess or NCL.  Quality mostly western style food.


After three days in St Petersburg the Neva River emerged at daybreak into Lake Ladoga, freshwater and 124 miles long and 75 miles wide, the home of salmon and sturgeon, the source of Russia’s famous caviar. 

Next up the Svir River linking the lakes of Ladoga and Onega 140 miles of pine forest that provide cover for bear, elk and lynx.  A curious lunchtime stopover was the village of Mandrogy, a sort of crossover between a purpose-built outlet store and a typical Russian riverside village.  It rained somewhat.

And on into Lake Onega and a diversion far to the north brought us to the little island of Kizhi, now a museum and the home of the Transfiguration Cathedral built in 1714 and restored.  No nails are used at all. There is also a farmhouse, again in wood, an interesting example of how people lived and worked in a harsh environment 100 years ago.

If you though that the Panama Canal consumed lives nobody knows how may people perished during the construction of the Volga – Baltic waterway in the late 1930s during the Stalinist era.  Probably tens of thousands.  Whilst there had been water links between Russia’s greatest cities from 1825 they were less than reliable  Stalin was determined to make the waterways a commercial artery no matter the cost.  Huge timber, fuel and coal barges still plough their way. 

Towns and churches followed, each with its idiosyncrasies and stories to tell.  Seemingly busy markets with plenty of fresh vegetables from all over the world.  The odd Jaguar spotted and the latest Mercedes, BMW and inevitable Toyota.  Friendly coffee shops and smiling people. The Rybinsk Reservoir, man-made, flooded by Stalin, with the church towers still pointing skyward above the waterline.  700 villages were lost.  A quick tour off the ship to Goritzy, a sleepy village and a fortified monastery visit.  A huge complex will a cell for each monk.  Russia of today is gradually rebuilding all these historical links.

Another diversion this time Yaroslavl, part of the “Golden Ring” of provincial cities protecting Moscow and since the middle of the 19th century on the Trans Siberian railway line to the Urals and Vladivostok.  There are supposed to be 170 churches in the city and they are just completing another one.  Icons galore.

Uglich is the last call before Moscow the town dating back one thousand years and popular as a retreat.  There was the visit to the inevitable church but the history of the place is fascinating.  Here was exiled the last, and seventh, wife of Ivan the Terrible, and here died in mysterious circumstances their son Dimitre soon after the Tsar’s own death.  Puskin tells the story in Boris Godunov.

And so up the Moscow Canal for the inevitable captain’s diner on the night before arrival and three days of sightseeing. 

Which way.  Northbound or Southbound.  It matters little.  It is a fine and fascinating trip. www.vikingrivercruises.com

Also see ON TOUR: St Petersburg

And ON TOUR: Moscow

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