ON TOUR: Isles of Scilly *

“I have been coming to the Scillies for over 40 years, an English utopia, 28 miles from the mainland, sometimes sub-tropical and sometimes less so, my day trip for business the other week nearly a disaster.  More anon.  BTN’s Editor-in-Chief reports.

St Mary’s, the 6sq mile main island, is both very modern and ancient, electric road vehicles available in keeping with the latest trends (road legal Chinese-built left-hand drive open-sided golf carts), and a 500-year-old castle, now a 5-star hotel complete with an indoor swimming pool plus fine dining with non-residents welcome.  Star Castle once accommodated the future Charles II during the English Civil War.  

The Scillies is an archipelago of five inhabited islands and 140 others, many of which are accessible via the local boatmen, and the home of birdlife, the seas surrounding abundant with many species of fish.

Around 2,200 souls live on the Scillies, opting for a quiet life and knowing that during the long season holidaymakers and day trippers will abound. For former Prime Minister Harold Wilson it was his home, and when he passed away aged 79 in 1995 he was buried in the cemetery at St Mary’s Old Church.  His wife Mary was to live quietly on St Mary’s until aged 102, a testament to its peace and tranquillity.

You can reach St Mary’s by fixed wing aircraft, helicopter or ferry.

By air there are all-year-round flights from Exeter, Land’s End and Newquay (St Mawgan) airports. With the introduction of daily services by Eastern Airways from Gatwick, London is now on the Scillies map, as are a number of regional airports.

The problem with St Mary’s is fog, a well-remembered day trip long ago with a small group, finishing up at the splendid Falcon Inn, St Mawgan, the Scillies fogged out.  The party all ended up sober enough to make the 17:30 return, in those days Heathrow.  There were successful trips, but they are not the ones that are remembered!  

Penzance is the natural jumping off point for the Scillies if coming by surface means.

Getting to the most Westerly town in the mainland UK could not be easier using GWR (affectionately called God’s Wonderful Railway) now making a real renaissance with The Night Riviera leaving Paddington at 23:45 and arriving at the end of the line at 07:00.  It works in reverse as well. Travelling with my wife Linda our two-berth bunk cabin was spotless complete with sink and wardrobe, but was a bit tight.  We elected to take the simple breakfast in the lounge car, also useful for a nightcap.  A pair of loos at end of the coach.

The plan was to go down overnight and join Penzance Helicopters for the 09:00 ten-minute ride to St Mary’s airport.  The check-in includes weighing each passenger on bathroom scales.  Even a medium-sized handbag was too big for the check-box and went into the hold with a small roller bag.  Next a very thorough standard briefing before boarding an extremely smart looking Augusta AW 109 six-passenger helicopter which took us across some choppy seas to the islands in just 12 minutes.  Alternate flights go to the amazing sub-tropical island of Tresco, with its famous abbey gardens founded by Augustus Smith nearly 200 years ago and still run by his descendants.  Tresco is a favourite day out by boat from the main island.

Penzance Helicopters is part of Sloane Helicopters founded by David George 50 years ago, still very much around, his son George (that’s right “George George”) now Director of the Penzance operation at the new heliport opened in March 2020.

Grab the seat facing towards the pilot if you can when getting on board.  That way you can see the captain working in the right-hand seat.  A fixed-wing pilot (that’s a ‘plank’ in helicopter language) normally is in the left-hand seat.  Why the difference?  Nobody really knows.  

“We’ve had an incredibly successful first 20 months of operation, despite the timing of our launch just a week before the first lockdown,” said George. “The service has been really well-received by islanders and visitors alike as a fast, convenient and exciting way to reach the islands. Passengers like the flexibility of flying to either St Mary’s or Tresco, as well as the experience of arriving on this enchanting archipelago in such a unique way.”

We made our way across a choppy sea to the St Mary’s airport, followed by a short taxi ride to the Scilly Cart Company.  A one day £46 booking was made for a two-seater (four- and six-seat versions are available at £56 & £66) which includes the legal insurance.  After a check of my driving licence, a short briefing, strapped in we were off. In the little time available a circumnavigation of the island was possible to Telegraph Hill at 400ft above sea level, the highest point.  The rules were simple.  Keep to the left, don’t take to the many tracks, and make use of the many stop-off areas for a short stroll and see the fabulous views and beaches.  We even visited the golf course.

We met Nick Bond, Executive Director of the Islands Partnership, the Official Destination Management Organisation for the Isles of Scilly.  “The Isles of Scilly have an enduring, timeless appeal and the last 18 months have really demonstrated what we hold dear; a sense of community, the healing power of nature, the great outdoors and the freedom to roam – all of which Scilly has in abundance.

“The islands are fortunate to retain loyal visitors year on year, around 100,000, many of whom have been coming for decades, since childhood and now enjoy the isles with children and grandchildren. Post-pandemic, following a strong and immediate bounce back from lockdown and restrictions, 2022 looks to be just as popular as 2021. Accommodation providers are seeing steady bookings with very few gaps in the summer months, widening the season and extending it earlier into March and later into October.”

And then it was to Star Castle and a phone call from Penzance Helicopters. “Please come back early.  We have weather problems.”  The plan was to catch the 15:00 service and then take the Cornish Riviera Express at 16:15 with its much-praised Pullman Car service.  

It was not to be.

The fog descended and Penzance was no better.

Our next move was to the Scillonian ferry for the 16:30 departure, the elderly ship making the crossing in 2hrs 15mins.  

We dined at Penzance at the excellent new Cork and Fork restaurant near the station and joined the night sleeper for the 21:00 departure but this time with connecting single cabins, highly recommended and worth every penny for the extra payment.  The Paddington arrival was 05:00 but we asked to be woken at 06:00 with a light breakfast.  

The train calls at the rural Cornwall stations to Plymouth and is ideal for people travelling to London saving time and the cost of an overnight stay.  We were home in North London by 07:30 and ready for a day’s activities.  With the original plan a sleep-in would have been required.  I did however miss the much-acclaimed steak on the GWR Pullman, praised as Britain’s finest regular rail service (six days a week).

Our next trip to St Mary’s will be a proper holiday and at least five nights.  There are a number of alternative hotels, we can hire a cottage, select a b&b, or you can camp!”

This is an adaption of a Sunday Times travel feature by Malcolm Ginsberg which appeared Sunday 28 November and available to Sunday Times subscribers.
www.thetimes.co.uk/article/knee-deep-in-nostalgia-on-a-return-trip-to-the-isles-of-scilly-23kk3prm2

Also see AND FINALLY: Isles of Scilly – Another route in this week's BTN.

And also New Scillies Ferry in BTN 11 October.

https://penzancehelicopters.co.uk

www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/skybus

www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/scillonian-iii

www.nationalexpress.com

www.gwr.com

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OUR READERS' FINEST WORDS (All times and dates are GMT)

All comments are filtered to exclude any excesses but the Editor does not have to agree with what is being said. 100 words maximum

Malcolm Ginsberg, United Kingdom

For the return journey the set-up was a single bed about six inches off the floor (see picture) and I will not be sueing GWR!

Timothy Procter, United Kingdom

But Malcolm, no mention of you falling off the train bunk on the way home? Was it a soft landing?

Wendy Jones, Plymouth

Can someone on the island tell why I can’t go by sea over the winter months. I am used to delays on ship and do not like the Twin Otter. I trust the new boat will give an all year around service.