ON TOUR: New Delhi. A city built to impress

BTN’s Editor-at-Large, Jeff Mills, explores India’s capital city.

It has been described by its fans as ‘Asia’s Washington’, a city built to a vision of power and glory not unlike its American counterpart. And certainly to many people this is a fair reflection of one of New Delhi’s faces – a city of diplomats, politicians, businessmen, soldiers and foreign correspondents.

But this ancient city has two distinct faces, perhaps many more, each of which can appeal to different people and moods. The elaborate domes and minarets of Old Delhi’s historic skyline is the part the tourists favour and which you will find in the promotional material.

There is no denying that Delhi is an atmospheric place. The former Mughal capital, has a touch of the Arabian Nights about it. The magic of Shah Jehan’s 17th century walled town squeezes up against his Red Fort and palace and the enormous Jama Masjid mosque, leaving visitors in no doubt at all that this is the vibrant heart of the Sub Continent.

Meanwhile, just to the north of this area and running from the President’s Palace and the ceremonial mall known as the Raj Path, you come across the more modern face of ‘New Delhi’, built by Sir Edwin Lutyens on a monumental scale to fulfil a European 20th century imperial dream, the foundation stone of which was laid in 1911 by King George V and Queen Mary.

While it may be true that the city of Mumbai has the buzz and brashness, New Delhi remains one of India’s largest commercial and financial centres, as well as being the seat of national government.

This is a very busy city. Everywhere you look there are people in their thousands going about their business, whether that may be running a large corporation, selling goods from a handcart or simply begging in the street, seemingly an art form in itself. All human life is here.

On the main street through the old capital, Chandni Chowk, the rush-hour seems to continue all day and much of the night as bullock carts, trucks, cars and bicycles jostle for position with pedestrians struggling to reach the small shops and stalls selling everything you may, or more likely may not, need.
 
The whole city is a potent and exotic mixture of extravagant luxury and dismal squalor, the super-rich and the very poor. For evidence or this contrast, visit any of the grand 5-star hotels, such as the The Oberoi which has the added attraction of the green and pleasant spaces of the Delhi Golf Club just outside its doors, or others dotted around the city with their marble halls, excellent service and wonderful air-conditioned rooms, then step outside once more to be immediately assailed by street life in its rawest forms.

Love Delhi or hate it – and you are almost bound to fall into one of those camps, perhaps both at different times and in different moods – you cannot deny it is one of the most fascinating cities to visit. And you should find plenty to entertain you for a few days at least.

When you have a bit of time off after business you could tread the fairways and greens at the golf club, you could watch the ponies being put through their paces at the Delhi Polo Club or join in with the locals’ passion as they watch a game at the Cricket Stadium.
 
Take a taxi to the 17th century Red Fort and Jama Masjid mosque early, when they are most glorious. Then give yourself the rest of the morning to take in the uninterrupted life of the walled city of Emperor Shah Jahan, also known as Old Delhi.

Every street is a world unto its own, devoted to car parts or wedding cards or freshly roasted spices. One of the liveliest is Kinari Bazaar, a crafters’ paradise bursting with haberdasheries, bead shops and vendors of bright red wedding turbans.  

And let’s not forget shopping. Delhi is like one enormous bazaar where you are likely to be able to find almost anything you are looking for. Among the best buys are arts and crafts, though some of the markets are fertile hunting places for antiques and not-quite-antiques. Be careful and hone your haggling skills and you could easily wind up with a suitcase full of bargains to bring home.
 
There are even stalls, notably in the Santushti Shopping Complex, where you can buy fashionable items of clothing originally designed to be sold in some of Europe’s top department stores but rejected for the export market over some minor flaw, providing canny visitors with bargains of a lifetime.

If your business or holiday dates permit you the choice, the best time to visit India is between late October (the end of the monsoon season) and mid-March.  April and May can be very hot and humid, with daytime highs of more than 40°C.

Air India, British Airways and Virgin Atlantic fly direct from the UK to New Delhi. Others offering connections via various points include Emirates, Etihad and Qatar.

Ignore taxi touts on arrival at Indira Gandhi International Airport and either get an official pre-paid taxi from the booth controlled by the Indian Traffic Police or, better still, ask your hotel to pick you up.

www.indiatouristoffice.org

www.oberoihotels.com

Courtesy images by istockphoto.com

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